How to buy a used car safely

A used car is one of the most expensive things you will ever buy through a classified ad. The difference between a good and a bad purchase is almost never made during price negotiation — it is made by how much you checked before showing up with cash. This guide walks through the steps in the order they actually happen.

1. Work to do before the first contact

Before you message the seller, spend half an hour studying the market. It is the cheapest protection you have.

• Look at how many similar cars — same make, model, year and roughly the same mileage — are listed, and at what price. If a listing is far below the rest, there is always a reason.
• Ask for the VIN in your very first message. A seller who refuses to provide it without explanation is reason enough to move on.
• Ask directly: why are you selling, how long have you owned it, and was it imported or bought locally. You will compare the answers against the documents.

2. Documents you must see

• Vehicle registration document — the name on it must match the person you are dealing with.
• Valid registration and a current roadworthiness certificate.
• Stamped service book. A well-serviced car with higher mileage is worth more than a neglected one with less.
• Proof that there are no unpaid fines or outstanding vehicle tax.
• If the car was imported — customs paperwork and proof that duties were paid.

If the seller is not the owner named in the registration, insist on a notarised power of attorney. Without it the transfer of ownership cannot be completed, and you will have paid for a car that is not legally yours.

3. Mechanical inspection

Arrange for the engine to be cold when you arrive. Many engine problems are only audible on the first start of the day, and a warm engine hides them.

• Cold start: listen for knocking, whining or smoke from the exhaust. Blue smoke means the engine is burning oil; white smoke on a warm engine can point to a head gasket problem.
• Bodywork: differences in paint shade between doors, wings and bonnet, or uneven panel gaps, mean the car has been in an accident.
• Tyres: uneven wear points to suspension or alignment problems. Check that all four are the same size.
• Fluids: a milky look to the engine oil means water in the engine — in that case simply walk away.
• A test drive of at least 15 minutes, including a stretch above 80 km/h and one firm stop on an empty road. Brake and vibration problems only reveal themselves at speed.
• Electrics: try every window, light, the air conditioning and the heater. Small faults are negotiating material.

Around thirty euros for an inspection at an independent garage of your own choosing is the best money you will spend in the whole process. If the seller objects to a mechanic you picked looking at the car, that is an answer in itself.

4. Mileage

Odometer tampering is still common. Compare the reading against the wear on the steering wheel, pedals, driver's seat and gear lever. A car showing 90,000 km with a worn-through steering wheel does not add up. Dates and distances in the service book must increase logically.

5. Price and payment

• Negotiate with specifics: faults you found, servicing due soon, worn tyres. A vague "come down a bit" rarely works.
• Pay somewhere safe — ideally at a bank or a notary, never in a car park after dark.
• Insist on a signed sales contract in two copies, listing the VIN, the mileage on the day of sale, the price and the date.

Never pay a deposit for a car you have not seen in person. "The car is abroad, send a deposit to reserve it" is the single most common scam in vehicle listings.

6. Transfer of ownership

Complete the transfer the same day you pay. The contract is certified, transfer tax is paid, and the car is re-registered in your name. Until that is done, the previous owner remains formally liable for traffic fines — and you have no proof the car is yours.